Exploring Estonia: Häädemeeste – Kabli – Treimani

Kosmonautika

The idea was to stay in a cottage on Estonia's western coast with a sea view, so that on waking in the morning the first thing to catch the eye would be the calm grey-blue of the sea and the tranquil shoreline. I found a place online called "Kosmonautika" (not far from the settlement of Jaagupi, the nearest town being Häädemeeste). Judging by the description, in Soviet times it was known as the legendary holiday centre "Vzmorje", where distinguished scientists and cosmonauts came to rest - including the first female cosmonaut Valentina Tereshkova. Quite interesting, is it not?

In reality, little of the former glory of those years remains. The territory is large, but the buildings from those times are thoroughly dilapidated and run-down, and there is nothing to testify to the cosmonauts' footsteps in the sand from those days (I was thinking of some sort of memorial corner with photographic evidence or something similar). In collaboration with EU funds, only two rows of terrace houses have been restored here in Scandinavian colours, and the shoreline has been fenced off with coastal meadows where cows, sheep, and horses graze freely in the wild. Judging by observations and descriptions, it is also an important nesting site for various birds.

It was a little disappointing that in the Häädemeeste area there was no proper access to the water - the sea shore was overgrown with grass and very rocky, as well as shallow. For a swim one had to drive a little further, to Kabli, where one could climb yet another observation tower overlooking the surroundings, stroll along the sandy beach, and swim (the water near the shore was pleasantly warm). A surprise at Kabli beach was Wi-Fi access. One could observe a surreal scene - in a forest hollow, on the sea shore, perched on wooden steps with a laptop, a hunched German tourist, with no other signs of civilisation whatsoever.

Estonian Roads

Estonia's roads were a pleasant surprise - tarmac as smooth as a board, even on minor roads. To say nothing of the main roads (towards Tartu and Pärnu), where the speed limit signs read 110 km/h. In Latvia, as is well known, it is patch upon patch - no room for a pin. The environment is visually different not only in the Scandinavian-type cottages and their colour schemes (burgundy with white), but also in the farm properties - near almost no house could one see the large vegetable gardens characteristic of Latvian countryside, though neat, well-kept green lawns were very much in evidence.

Otherwise as customary: wherever there is a village, there is also a church. We stopped at almost every one for a closer look - including at the place with the distinctly Latvian-sounding name Treimani. The central house in the village also held a pood (shop) and a post office. Moreover, the shop had a machine for returning empty glass and plastic containers, which gave a voucher that could be exchanged for products or money. Resourceful, is it not?

Returning to our accommodation at "Kosmonautika", we managed both to grill meat on skewers - as all the necessary equipment was right next to the cottage - and to go mushrooming in the nearest forest and make a chanterelle sauce. The most beautiful moments were the sunset evenings when the sun sank into the sea and bathed the coastal meadows in golden light.