Latvia's Oldest City Celebrates 840
Just as weddings in Latgale, so city festivals are celebrated for three days. We only managed to enjoy one day of Ludza's festival programme, but otherwise rested, enjoyed ourselves, and swam to our hearts' content in the warm lake waters.
It so happens that we were both born in Latvia's oldest city, which has been mentioned in written sources as early as 1177 (by comparison, Riga's age is counted from 1201). It is not in a military campaign or conquest chronicle - where ancient place names are most commonly preserved - but in the record of the birth of Mikhail, son of Prince Ryurik. New life, a new beginning.
The fate of a city that has always stood at the crossroads of trade routes and borders is reflected in its coat of arms - a key and a sword. In all ages varied in national composition, with the dominant groups being Latgalians, Jews, and Slavs.
If back then in Soviet times - our school years - life in the city was bubbling, now the population has shrunk considerably. The city has remained a haven of peace to which one can return after the bustle of Riga. Well-kept, ancient, beautiful, surrounded by waters, but too quiet - which gives cause for concern about its future.
Likewise at the city festival, it sometimes seemed that in the guest market, the squares, the park, and by the bandstand, there were more visitors than Ludza residents themselves. Whatever the case, the festival turned out well. The good Lord also spoiled us with the weather - sunny, warm, no rain or storms. We enjoyed ourselves and swam to our hearts' content in the warm lake waters.
Worth visiting are the restored Ludza Synagogue, the crafts centre, the city park, the castle mound, and the Catholic and Orthodox churches. The market, where you can buy just about anything that is legally or semi-legally brought across the nearest eastern borders. The strong Latgalian beer, songs and books in the local language, home producers' goods and crafts.
In the evening there was again a Raimonds Pauls concert and the festival fireworks in the city park. Nearby is also a pond with a fountain, beside which sits a frog - the enchanted princess. If someone kisses her at midnight, they will gain a beautiful wife. The Lovers' Bench - the most popular spot for photographs. The Zepka musician's bench by the culture house, however, is not so popular.
Just as weddings in Latgale, so city festivals are celebrated for three days. Here is a photo glimpse of the second of them.
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