The Grand Walk: Miķeļtornis - Ovīši - Ventspils

The grand walk was planned for two days and in two stages. The start was at Miķeļtornis lighthouse, currently closed to visitors, and the conclusion of the first day was at Ovīši lighthouse, where seventeen people, having overcome yet another endurance barrier - 182 small steps upward - could calmly watch as the flat solar disc sank into the sea and the night took hold of the shore, the pine forest, and the lighthouse's white tower.

The first stage along the sea between the two lighthouses is approximately 18 km. In the middle, two small streams - one of which in the hot weather had almost completely dried up - and four stops. The first two segments up to the midday break were fairly easily manageable, without leaving one's comfort zone and enjoying the brisk walk - pleasantly warming sunshine and a fairly strong wind that succeeded several times in blowing my wide-brimmed hat straight into the not-particularly-warm sea water.

Somewhere around the 12 km mark the comfort zone (at least mine) ran out, and the head filled again with various thoughts - the unresolved work issues that always help against fatigue but tend to spoil the mood. Irritability began to creep in - where is everyone going, what is everyone running for, everything is pointless. Around 18 km, when the walk leaders finally pointed to a long-awaited sign where everyone was to turn from the shore toward the lighthouse, the irritability and physical discomfort transformed into destructive stubbornness: carry on walking.

I imagined how the sun-reddened shoulders and arms would be pleasantly enveloped by the cool of the night, then the clothes become saturated with heavy moisture, the shoreline barely visible, but the pre-Midsummer night is light enough not to lose one's way. Then fatigue finally overcomes thought, the head is pleasantly empty, sleep begins to arrive and heaviness pulls one toward the ground, movements become unconscious, steps stagger. Just a brief moment and the light, not yet fully extinguished, begins to fill the space again - but now one can see nothing around - everything in white fog. It becomes cold and even less comfortable. Anger at oneself awakens: should have stayed at camp after all, where the others are now sleeping sweetly. The sun gradually begins to scatter the fog; every blade of grass, every grain of sand, every pine branch covered with dew. Warmth slowly returns. The sea is calm. No wind. It will be a sultry day.

In reality everything was quite different. Tired and happy to have reached the first day's final destination, we made our way along the pine forest path toward Ovīši lighthouse. Accommodation was in the old narrow-gauge railway station house, which is located not far from the lighthouse. The tracks themselves are no longer visible - either removed or deeply overgrown with grass. On the house wall, old photographs from the time of Latvia's first independence and some printouts with a Kurzeme narrow-gauge railway map - a schematic of the Stende–Ventspils railway network (1935) and a historical description.

In the cold water of the outdoor tap we washed away the first fatigue. A campfire spot was set up and then the lighthouse keeper led a tour of the small museum and the lighthouse itself. We learned that the lighthouse fire is provided by a small bulb and curved mirrors, which in the case of Ovīši lighthouse ensure the light's visibility at a distance of 15 nautical miles. Each lighthouse has a unique external appearance, and there is an international register in which all the world's lighthouses are recorded. Ovīši lighthouse (1844) is 37 m tall and unique in its construction - a tower within a tower. The outer tower diameter is 11.5 m and the inner is 3.5 m. Up the inner tower's small steps and through the rather narrow winding ascent we reached the lighthouse's upper open viewing platform, from which a fantastic view opened across the flattened pine tops to the sea. Tour price per person - 0.70 EUR.

The morning of the second day was bathed in sunshine. The lighthouse's white tower seemed to reflect light in all directions. The station's wooden building took on a pleasantly green hue. The wooden floor boards no longer creaked quite so badly, but humbly bore the patter of our footsteps. The walkers packed their things and prepared for the road. The second leg from Ovīši to Ventspils was 22 km long. This time, however, we refrained from this challenge and drove directly by car to Ventspils, to greet the rest of the group at the lovely guesthouse "Marbella" (Karlīnes iela 28, Ventspils). On the way we stopped and swam in the fairly shallow Lake Būšnieki, where a rest spot with piers and changing cabins is set up.

Having rested a little - now in the comfortable double bed of the guesthouse, enjoying the pleasant rustle of clean sheets and pillowcases with their fabric softener aroma - we set off on a calm and unhurried walk along the Ventspils promenade. We suddenly realised that in everyday life it is an ordinary street with cars. Up until now we had only visited Ventspils on public holidays.

On the promenade we also found a lovely spot for culinary pleasure - café-restaurant "Ostas 23" (Ostas iela 23, Ventspils), where we lingered for about an hour to sample tastefully presented fish dishes and indulge in dessert. Both the aforementioned guesthouse and this café we genuinely recommend to visitors to Ventspils - a warm welcome, professional service, and delicious food.

When the long-distance walkers arrived and had rested a little, under cover of darkness we also took a short walk to the Ventspils pier, which is currently undergoing rather substantial reconstruction and reinforcement works. The summer night sky above the sea with the port lights and the growing crescent moon looked very picturesque.

This grand walk was accompanied by excellent organisation and the company of a lovely group of positive and open people. Despite the physical fatigue, we enjoyed every moment, which allowed one to disconnect from the daily hustle and the race of things to be done. From time to time such a shake-up is truly necessary. Many thanks to Aiga, Jānis, and the whole group!