Reviewing a New Spot in Riga - La Folie Chef's Kitchen

La Folie Chef's Kitchen is right at the start of Hospitāļu Street. Having successfully found practically the only free spot along the narrow one-way street to park the car, we headed inside the newly discovered place. The hopeful sign on the semi-basement entrance door indicated that we could linger here until 11 pm.

The place was nearly empty - the owner sat at the bar with a laptop, there was a young waiter, and at one of the tables four Russian-speaking women in their prime conversed at some volume. Burgundy tablecloths, neatly folded napkins, sets of glasses and cutlery. The premises were recently renovated and fresh, though they gave no indication whatsoever of anything French.

From the rather loud conversation of those present - which the owner joined - we inadvertently learned that he had recently opened this place and runs it together with his wife. A family business, then. So far, the advertising efforts tried have yielded no real results. He aims to stick to the principle of using local products and buying local drinks where possible.

The last point Ēriks could verify fully, enjoying beers he had not previously tried even as a seasoned beer drinker - Saldus Flower Beer and Raiskumietis - in bottles (€4 each). Also on offer were Krāslava and Bursh, as well as draught Cēsu. So the beer menu - OK (bar the last commercial one).

The waiter was dressed quite oddly - jeans and black ill-fitting gloves on his hands. The subsequent communication and service style were rarely lamentable (a warm suggestion to the owner: consider training this lad before sending him near customers, or perhaps more drastically, replacing him with another young hopeful). Despite our being the only remaining guests, no attention was paid to the empty or surplus dishes on the table. The emptied drink glasses simply accumulated on the table through to the end of the meal.

Not a single one of the standard phrases - how was the food? may I take that? would you like to order anything else? - was ever heard. Possibly the waiter had general difficulties communicating in Latvian, as he could not manage to ask what kind of steak we wanted - well-done or medium. We tried to guess what he was mumbling under his breath; later we recognised a few words in English. Moreover, the question was addressed to Ēriks, who had in fact ordered Duck Breast with Beetroot Mash and Onion Jam (€10.50), while I had ordered the unfortunate Beef Entrecôte with Mushroom Composition and Thyme Sauce (€15.40).

Before the main course arrived, some interesting round, four-coloured warm rolls were brought, which looked very promising. They tasted excellent too. That the food was cooked to order rather than reheated - judging by the sounds from the kitchen - speaks in the place's favour. The presentation and plating of the food were not a feast for the eyes - at least in the case of my dish. The duck breast was more or less OK.

Flavour, of course, is a subjective indicator, but I will say frankly that I found it lacking in nuance and seasoning, and the poor visual presentation was off-putting. To Ēriks, everything again seemed too sweet. The tea served in a pot was not loose-leaf but a Greenfield tea bag. A sparse selection of non-alcoholic drinks - tea, white and black coffee, and carton juices.

In short, the virtual image created online differs considerably from the reality in person. The place offers no new concept, nor dishes or drinks unusual for these latitudes. Its target audience is hard to guess. We wish it success in finding its clientele and staying afloat in the restaurant business!